What is Textile Finishing?
The word ‘Finishing’ refers to the completion of a job properly. When a fabric is collected from weaving or knitting machine, it remains gray in color and crisp. It is known as gray fabric. Before dyeing the gray fabric, it’s required to be treated by some other processes to be ready for dyeing. These processes are called textile finishing.
In short, textile finishing is the process of making gray fabric more attractive, durable and fit for use. It includes all the processes performed after dyeing and before sewing. It improves the color, design, softness, hand feel, absorbency, resistance and other properties of gray fabric. Some types and examples of textile finishing are given below:
- Calendaring to smooth the surface of cotton fabric by removing creases
- Water repellent finish of umbrella and raincoat fabric
- Making carpet stain resistant
- Making medical textiles anti-microbial
- Using fabric softener to make it more attractive by increasing softness & hand feeling.
Significance of Textile Finishing:
There is no alternative to finishing in fabric marketing and making it attractive to the buyer. By the way, fabric may require some distinct function in end uses. For example: the fabric used for umbrella or raincoat must be water repellent, the fabric used as bandages for wounds in medical must be anti-bacterial& anti-microbial. Generally gray fabrics do not posses these properties. These properties are imparted to the gray fabric through various finishing processes. As a result, the quality of the cloth increases, as well as its utility is enhanced.
The major purpose of finishing is basically twofold:
a) Attractiveness: The fabric is turned into more attractive appearance to the buyer by improving the external properties through various finishing processes. This makes the marketing of product easier. Some finishes used to enhance attractiveness are: calendering to smooth the surface of cotton fabric, softening to increase the hand feel of the fabric etc.
b) Serviceability: Various finishing processes are applied to make the fabric suitable for specific purposes by improving or changing internal and quality properties. For example: as gray fabric absorbs water, it cannot be used directly as an umbrella cloth. Therefore, the water absorption capacity of the gray fabric is reduced by waterproof finishing. As a result, it becomes ready to use in umbrella cloth.
Importance and Requirements of Finishing:
The importance and requirements of finishing are mentioned below:
- Increase the quality of the fabric
- Increase the price of textile product
- Make clothes more attractive and comfortable
- Meet customer needs
- Increase the utility of the fabric
- Create new utility of textile
- Increase durability of fabric
Different Types of Textile Finishing:
Finishing can be classified in various ways. Different types of textile finishing on the basis of method, durability and properties are discussed below:-
1. Types of finishing on the basis of method:
Textile finishing is 02 (two) types based on method, as: Physical or Mechanical Finishing and Chemical Finishing.
A. Physical or Mechanical Finishing: The finishing that does not use any chemicals& is done only by mechanical process, called physical or mechanical finishing. Its features are briefly mentioned below:
- Various physical agents like heat, pressure, friction etc. are applied to the surface of the fabric.
- Physical agent changes the external structure of the fabric.
- Physical or mechanical finishing only changes the surface of the fabric, not effects on its chemical structure.
- No chemicals are used in this process. But sometimes water is applied during finishing.
- Examples of physical or mechanical finishing: calendering, shearing etc.
B. Chemical Finishing: The finishing that uses any chemical substance to change the internal properties of the fabric, it is called chemical finishing. Its features are briefly mentioned below:
- Different types of chemicals such as acid, alkali, resin etc. are applied to the fabric during finishing.
- Chemical finishing changes the chemical structure of the fabric.
- Physical structure of the fabric may or may not be changed.
- Examples of chemical finishing: Softener finish, resin finish etc.
Difference between physical and chemical finishing is given below:
| Physical finishing | Chemical finishing | |
| Definition | Finishing that does not use any chemicals, is done only by mechanical process, called physical or mechanical finishing. | The finishing which uses a chemical substance to change the internal properties of the fabric is called chemical finishing. |
| Finishing Agents | Various physical agents are applied to fabrics, such as heat, pressure, friction, etc. | Different types of chemical agents are applied to the fabric, such as acid, alkali, resin etc. |
| Reaction | No chemical reactions are happened. | Chemical reactions must be occurred. |
| Physical Change | The physical structure of the cloth must change. | The physical structure of the fabric may or may not change. |
| Chemical Change | There is no change in the chemical composition of the fabric material. | The chemical structure of the fabric changes. |
| Use of Chemical | No chemicals are used, but sometimes water is used. | Chemicals must be used in this process. |
| Durability | Its effect on cloth is relatively less permanent. | Its effect on cloth is relatively more permanent. |
| Cost | It is generally less expensive. | It is comparatively more expensive. |
| The purpose of finishing | Increase the attractiveness of fabrics, improve hand feel etc. | To impart various properties, increase the quality& Serviceability etc. |
| Example | Calendering, Shearing etc. | Softener finish, resin finish etc. |
2. Types of finishing on the basis of method:
Finishing is 03 (three) types on the basis of permanence:
- Permanent or durable finishing
- Semi Durable Finishing
- Non-durable/Temporary Finishing
a) Permanent/Durable Finishing: The process in which the finishing effect remains stable for the lifetime of the fabric is called permanent or durable finishing. Its features are briefly mentioned below:
- As long as the fabric is used, the result of this finishing remains intact.
- The effect of this finishing is not destroyed by end use or washing.
- Examples of permanent or durable finishing: raising, sanforizing, mercerizing etc.
b) Semi Durable Finishing: The process, in which the finishing effect gradually decreases due to repeated use or washing of the fabric, is called semi-durable finishing. Its features are briefly mentioned below:
- The finishing effect is not stable throughout the lifetime of the fabric.
- Usually after 10-15 washes or use of the garment, the effect of this finishing starts to diminish and eventually the effect of the finishing disappears completely.
- Examples of partially permanent finishing: Softener finish, optical brightening etc.
c) Non-durable/Temporary Finishing: The process in which the finishing effect of is quickly lost due to use or washing, is called Non-durable or Temporary Finishing. Its features are briefly mentioned below:
- Finishing effect is completely temporary.
- Usually after 1-2 washes or use of the fabric, the effect of this finishing will completely disappear.
- Examples of partial permanent finishing: Calendering etc.
Difference between Durable, Semi Durable and Non-durable finishing:
| Durable or Permanent Finishing | Semi Durable Finishing | Non-durable or Temporary Finishing | |
| Definition | The process in which the finishing effect remains stable for the lifetime of the fabric is called permanent or durable finishing. | The process, in which the finishing effect gradually decreases due to repeated use or washing of the fabric, is called semi-durable finishing. | The process in which the finishing effect of is quickly lost due to use or washing, is called Non-durable or Temporary Finishing. |
| 2.Duration of finishing effect | The finishing effect is permanent. | This finishing effect is short lasting. | The finishing effect is absolutely temporary. |
| 3. destroy of finishing effect | The finishing effect is not lost by the use or washing of fabric. | The finishing effect will gradually wear off by the use or washing of fabric. | The finishing effect wears off quickly by the use or washing of fabric. |
| Number of using or washing cycle to disappear finishing effect completely | As long as the fabric is used, the result of this finishing remains intact. | Usually after 10-15 washes or wears, this finishing effect eventually disappears completely. | Usually after 1-2 washes or use of the fabric, the effect of this finishing will completely disappear. |
| Example | Raising, Mercerizing etc. | Softener finish, optical brightening etc. | Calendaring finish. |
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Working as head of the dept. of Wet Process Engineering at Textile Engineering College, Zorargonj, Chattogram. He is also CEO at TEC Media and advisor at Textile Engineers Club. He hosts textile related online program ‘TEC Show’.